One of the watch industry’s biggest annual events, the Geneva Watch and Wonder trade show came face-to-face last week for the first time since 2019. the Palexpo showroom showcased 38 brands, with some 22,000 guests attending the event. Newcomers included big names like Patek Philippe and Rolex, as well as Swiss brand Oris and Japanese giant Grand Seiko.Below, the top 10 new designs from the show.
A. Lange & Söhne
A. Lange & Söhne, a German watch maker known for its complicated timepieces, introduces its first minute repeater watch to the Richard Lange Watches family. The new version features a single complication with sliding pushers that trigger a chiming mechanism that continuously indicates the hours, quarters and minutes. Its aesthetic is as clear as its sound, with a three-part white enamel dial set in a 39 mm platinum case with slender black numerals, hot blued steel hands and a classic seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. a. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater, price upon request，Alange-Soehne.com
Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin first reissued the classic with the new Historiques 222 in 1977 to celebrate the brand’s 222nd anniversary. Although this was not the brand’s first foray into sporting watches, it certainly became one of the most exclusive with its integrated bracelet, flat base and fluted bezel. Updates to the original 37 mm yellow gold model include a new internal movement and a skeletonized caseback displaying the movement. Subtle additions include Super-LumiNova coatings for the hands and hours, as well as a new method for hinging the bracelet. Vacheron Constantin, Historiques 222, $62,500，Vacheron-Constantin.com
Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels makes it easy to lose track of time with the new Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier. 38 mm rose gold case is set with a dynamic floral enamel pattern that indicates the hours through a unique pattern between 12 mechanical flowers that start each hour in a specific cycle “bloom”. The left case features a retrograde linear minute display. van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier watch, $246,000，VanCleefArpels.com
TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer’s Carrera Plasma is set in four ways with 11.7 carats of lab-grown diamonds and the Heuer 02T internal movement. The dial is composed of finely ground diamond powder and set with diamond hour markers, while the 44mm aluminum case is set with precisely shaped diamonds – “difficult, if not impossible, to make shapes with real diamonds,” says Frédéric said Arnault, CEO of Tag Heuer. The most striking component is the crown, itself a 2.5-carat diamond. tag heuer, Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph, $380,000，TAGHeuer.com
Panerai
The Panerai Submersible collection gets some interesting updates with three new QuarantaQuattro watches featuring a variety of colored dials, materials and straps. the QuarantaQuattro Bianco is bright and fresh with a white dial, luminous markers and a brushed steel case. Its army green rubber strap is partially made of recycled material.
Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe’s new Calatrava offers a more casual, retro-inspired alternative to the timepiece collection. It features a textured charcoal grey dial with black gradient edges and gold markers covered with beige luminescent coating, all encased in a white gold case. The sides are decorated with guilloché stud motifs for a vintage touch. It also comes with a beige calfskin strap with a brushed leather finish.
Patek Philippe, Calatrava 5226G, $39,033，Patek.com
Hermès
The Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur is a playful and practical dual time zone watch, says Laurent Dordet, CEO of La Montre Hermès: “We like to ask serious complications, [while] having fun and telling stories.” Home time can be viewed in a window at 12 o’clock, while the destination time is displayed on a satellite dial. The satellite time zone indicated by the name of the city surrounding the main dial can be advanced by pressing a button on the side of the case. The dial displays the imaginary world map that originally appeared on the Hermès scarf.
Hermès, Blue Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, $22,550，Hermes.com
Rolex
At first glance, the new GMT Master II, with its two-tone green and black bezel, date window and Oyster steel bracelet, looks similar to the previously released version. The difference? The crown has been moved to the left side of the watch, opening up possibilities for right-wrist watch wearers everywhere.
Rolex, Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II, $10,050，Rolex.com
Cartier
The new addition to the Cartier Privé collection aims to reissue a classic design and breathe new life into the little-known Tank, first introduced in 1922 in a square case with a squared-off top and bottom profile inspired by the porticoes of Chinese temples. The new version, with its rectangular case, adds a more fluid and refined look to the watch.
Cartier, Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise, $28,300，Cartier.com
H. Moser & Cie.
The gold dial is hammered, three different green pigments are applied, then the mixture is placed in the oven and subjected to extremely high temperatures. A more precise version of this procedure was used to create the dial on Endeavour Center Seconds Concept lime green. The pop of color and the hour, minute and second hands are the only features of the dial. No numbers, no brand name. “We think that something is helping us to think differently and explore new ways of watchmaking, especially in terms of movements,” says Edouard Myelan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie.
H. Moser & Cie., Endeavour Center Seconds Concept Lime Green, $27,600，H-Moser.com
