There’s no shortage of inspiration when it comes to protective hairstyles. Cornrows and knotless box braids have long been a favorite among fans who are looking for a style that’s easy to maintain, low manipulation and will last for weeks, although for the same reason, bows have been all the rage lately.
Meet the Experts: Gabrielle Joseph, stylist at locs New York; Allyson Carter hair stylist and editor-in-chief of Hair Spies; Stephanie Crisler, faux language specialist at So Extra Locs
For the uninitiated, butterfly locs are similar to faux locs, except they have little loops that usually sit on opposite sides of the base loc, giving you a nicer unfinished look. They are becoming increasingly popular because they can be designed in different colors and lengths, and if properly cared for, they can protect your hair from damage and over-processing.
“Butterfly locs protect your natural hair from breakage and damage caused by environmental factors,” says Allyson Carter, Hair Spies’ stylist and editor-in-chief. “Your natural hair strands will be bound and protected by the synthetic hair that wraps around them.” Carter adds that they are also a good option if you don’t want to think about how to style your hair every day.
If you’re considering getting butterfly genes for the first time – or just want to refresh your knowledge – read everything you need to know before making an appointment.
How are butterfly locs fitted?
This may depend on the stylist you go to, as there are several different ways to get the job done. Some stylists use the weave and wrap method, which involves separating the hair into brick layers or free-parting base braids or plaits. The number of braids you install depends on the density of your hair and the size you want, Joseph says.
Your stylist then hooks the synthetic curly textured hair over the braid, then wraps a small section of synthetic textured hair from the bottom of the braid to the root, then wraps it again. locs the small spaces on either side to create butterfly-like “wings. Because the curls naturally hold it in place, simply seal the loc by wrapping it until there is no more hair to cover.
“It’s important to use small pieces of hair to avoid making your hair bulky. You can always add more if necessary and leave those little spaces when wrapping so the hair isn’t stiff and has movement,” Joseph says. “It ensures that clients are not left with tightly wrapped, stiff or sore areas.”
The braiding and wrapping method, while popular, can be a bit time-consuming if you do it yourself. “Depending on the size and length of the loc needed, and the length, density and even head size of the client, it can take four to eight hours,” Joseph says.
A faster alternative is the crochet method, which involves combing the hair before attaching pre-made, non-done synthetic threads to the braid using a crochet hook.
What kind of hair is used for bows?
According to Joseph, soft and hypoallergenic synthetic curly textured hair works best. One of her go-to tricks is to rinse hair with apple cider vinegar and then use a co-wash to remove the alkaline alkali that makes synthetic hair shiny, but she notes that the lack of shine after rinsing makes the hair look more natural.
Using this method is also a good option for people with sensitive skin, as alkaline coatings are also known to cause scalp irritation and itching. “Itching is the most common complaint with synthetic hair,” she says.
What’s the best way to prepare for your butterfly locs appointment?
If you want to roll out of bed and sit directly in the salon chair, you may want to rethink your game plan. Carter notes that washing, deep conditioning and combing your hair during your appointment will make the process easier for the stylist. “Because it will stay that way for a long time, it’s best to start with clean, combed hair,” she says.
Some stylists also recommend blow-drying hair beforehand. However, for those who deal with heat damage or don’t use heating tools on their hair at all, Carter stresses that this isn’t necessary as long as your hair is detangled.
What is the best way to maintain the butterfly position?
If you want to keep your body in tip-top shape for four to eight weeks, you should massage a light serum or oil into your scalp every few days to maintain moisture. Carter also points out that if you choose to wash your hair, you won’t get a full wash because a portion of your hair will be hidden away.
“If you must wash your hair, be careful not to leave any moisture behind and blow dry. Moisture can get trapped in places and cause bacteria to grow,” she explains.
If not properly maintained, you may start to see hair fall out or fall apart. This can be easily trimmed by repacking them at home.
When is the best time to remove them?
While the style can last up to a few weeks, leaving them on longer than recommended can lead to oil buildup, which can lead to hair and scalp damage, so it’s best not to keep them on for more than eight weeks.
“When the natural roots grow out more than an inch or so, locs should be removed to avoid scalp tension,” says artificial loc expert Stephanie Crisler so the extra location.
If it looks like it’s time to take them out, Crisler recommends going back to your stylist to get them out. However, if you’d rather do it yourself, a quick search on YouTube can help you find videos showing the proper removal technique.
Even so, there are a few things to remember before you get started. “Don’t remove locs after a rigorous workday or any late night when you’re extremely tired or exhausted, because removing locs takes a little time,” Joseph says. Setting aside time to really commit to removing locs will also avoid any possibility of accidentally cutting your own hair.
In general, the process is simple.
1.Find a spot and look for your foundation weave.
2.Pull it out of position at the highest possible point.
3.Next, cut the loc and unravel the rest of the hair.
4.Unravel your hair and carefully unravel it.
Who shouldn’t get butterfly positions?
As amazing as these positions are, there are certain situations where they should be avoided. “If your hair is severely damaged and brittle, bows may be too much for your scalp. Synthetic hair can get heavy, and if your scalp is already stressed, it can cause breakage and your hair [can become] more fragile,” Carter explains.
Crisler adds that anyone with scalp hair loss or an extremely dry scalp should also stay away from this style. Fortunately, there are no restrictions on these locations in any fitness-related way. Therefore, you can continue your fitness regimen as usual.
